Michael and I started the Superior Hiking Trail, a 306-mile trail along Lake Superior in Minnesota, on August 16. This is part 2 of our adventure: Grand Marais to Tofte.
Here are my daily recaps of days 5-7 on the Superior Hiking Trail. Make sure to check out Part 1, Part 3, Part 4, and Part 5 as well!
Superior Hiking Trail Day 5
Grand Marais to Indian Creek – 20.9 miles (including a 1.6-mile road walk) – 9 hours, 15 minutes
We woke up at about 8:00 am, showered, and headed out for breakfast. On the way to Blue Water Cafe we stopped in the Ben Franklin to pick up some insoles for me. I’ve never used insoles before, but my arches have been hurting so I figured I’d give them a shot.
It started raining while at breakfast. Fortunately, it didn’t look like it was going to last long. Originally the forecast called for rain most of the day. We only planned to hike about 12 miles, so we weren’t rushing out of town.
By the time we left the hotel at 10:45 am it had stopped raining. We still wore our rain pants figuring that the trail would be pretty wet (it was). There was a 1.6 mile road walk before getting on a trail. It started raining while we were on it.
We got on the trail and it was pretty much uphill for the first mile. After that it leveled out and we were walking on an old road/multi-sport trail for about 2 miles. We were walking through a lot of wet grass, but there were pretty wildflowers so it all evened out.
Our first break happened at about 1:00 pm. By this point it didn’t seem like it was going to rain anymore and the trail was drying up, so I ditched the rain pants.
We continued hiking and came across a little beaver pond. The trail was a boardwalk built right on top of the dam. I’m glad it didn’t break. That would’ve been a dirty fall.
Shortly afterwards we passed by a few campsites and crossed a county road. We took a quick break here to look at our maps and mileage. It was right around 2:00 pm. We were planning on camping at North Cascade River, which was only 5-6 miles away. That distance would only be a few hours of hiking, so we decided to hike longer since there were more campsites a few miles down from North Cascade River.
The trail was pretty flat for this part of the day with the occasional up and down. It was one of those days where we were basically walking in the trees all day. Nothing too exciting.
We passed North Cascade River campsite at about 4:30 pm and then came to a trail parking lot. I believe the trail used to travel along the east side of the river, but the bridge that crosses it is out, so there is now also a trail on the west side. We had to road walk a little before getting on the detoured trail. We saw a Superior Hiking Trail sign on the road and figured that was were the trail started again.
We entered at the sign and it dropped us down to a path that was barely trampled down in a dark forest. After pushing through a lot of trees and sharp branches we figured it wasn’t actually the trail and made our way (by forging our own path) back up to the road. It was really tough! We immediately saw the entrance to the real trail. It was much nicer than we were just walking through. Quite the adventure though!
From here we walking through a beautiful grove of maple trees!
Then we started declining in elevation down to the North Cascade River. We filtered water there and had a little snack (sour Haribo gummy bears!!). We came up to a campsite shortly afterwards. It was 6:30 pm and we both had enough in us to hike a few more miles, but the next campsite was 3.3 miles away, meaning we’d probably get there right at sunset. At first we weren’t going to do it, but then figured “what the heck” and went for it.
I attribute our go-getter attitudes to the sour gummies.
The trail continued to decline and I tried to move fast. As always, the roots made it difficult.
A little over a mile later we came up to the “96 steps”. We had been seeing this posted on signs and I was expecting the worst, like 96 steps that were each 1 foot (or more) tall. Turns out they were about 4 inches tall and in nice shape. We flew up them with no problem. *sigh of relief*
The trail was still ascending after that and we hiked up to Lookout Mountain. It was a beautiful overlook, but it’s hard to tell in the picture.
Whenever Michael and I come to an overlook our first comment is always, “this would look so pretty in the fall”. If you want to hike the Superior Hiking Trail it wouldn’t be a bad idea to time your hike with the fall colors.
Anyways, from this point we were 1.2 miles away from our campsite and 30 minutes away from sunset. We cruised through the trail – Michael walking an easy brisk pace with me following behind practically running – and made it to camp just in time to set up the tent before dark.
While dinner was cooking (AKA while ramen was hydrating) I calculated our miles. We did 19.3 miles on trail, plus our 1.6-mile road walk! I thought we had walked 17 miles, but nope, my first 20-mile day on trail! Not too shabby for starting at 10:45 am.
Another exciting thing is that the insoles did help my arches. Yay!
We finished scarfing down our food by the light of our headlamps (so romantic) and then headed straight to the tent.
Another great day on the Superior Hiking Trail.
Superior Hiking Trail Day 6
Indian Creek to Onion River – 20.5 miles – 10 hours
I had my best night of tent sleep last night. It was amazing. Normally my tent sleep isn’t anything to be desired, so I’m glad I finally slept really well.
The good night of sleep did make it harder to get up, but I eventually crawled out of the tent and started getting ready for another day of hiking.
After breakfast (some cold instant oats and cold coffee) we went to the stream near our campsite to filter water. Then we were on the trail at 8:30 am.
The trail started out with a nice uphill climb that brought us to an overlook. You could just barely make out Lake Superior.
A few miles later we hit another overlook. It’s nice to be able to get more views throughout the day!
At mile 8 we hit Lake Agnes. It was a real lake! Not a beaver pond or a swamp, but a bonafide lake. We stopped and took our lunch break here since it was right around noon and there were actually some views.
We were both hurting a little bit. Michael’s back was bothering him and I just felt sluggish. Neither of us wanted to get up and get going, but we did. Our goal was to do another 20-mile day, so we needed to keep moving.
After Lake Agnes we hiked 3 miles to Poplar River, where we filtered water. We had a nice spot on the rocks near the water, but it all of a sudden started raining on us. The weather forecast didn’t mention anything about rain, so we were pretty surprised. Fortunately, it didn’t last long.
A quick uphill after the creek we stumbled upon another overlook, Glove Overlook.
Another 3 miles and we were walking by Lutsen. We took a quick break to look at the maps and realized we still had 6 miles to hike. We were moving much slower than yesterday, but the terrain was also a little more difficult and less flat. With that said we figured we’d get to camp around 6:30 pm, which is perfect.
We did have some post-rain blue skies, so we took a second to admire them.
We had three bigger (300-400 foot) climbs coming up for the day – Mystery Mountain, Moose Mountain, and Oberg Mountain. The uphills and downhills on the Superior Hiking Trail are efficient. For the most part they are either straight up or straight down with very few switchbacks. It makes the hills quick and (mostly) painless.
With that said Moose Mountain went straight up. We needed to take 5 after that one. Then we dropped 500 feet down to Rollins Creek and filled up on water. From here we only had 2 miles left. We were both so ready to be done.
The hike up to Oberg Mountain was surprisingly gradual. There were even some switchbacks! I really wanted to take the spur trail up to the top and take in some views, but my feet were barking and I just needed to be done. Fortunately our campsite was only .5 miles from the parking lot.
We rolled into camp right at 6:30 pm and were happy to take off our packs and get the tent set up so that we could relax the rest of the evening.
We made dinner, brushed our teeth and crawled into the tent. Tomorrow is a town day!
Superior Hiking Trail Day 7
Onion River to Tofte – 7.7 miles (including a 2.4-mile road walk) – 2 hours, 30 minutes
I had another great night of sleep! It’s so refreshing to actually sleep well.
Another good thing is that I’m finally getting my morning routine nailed down! I put on my t-shirt, socks, and gaiters, crawl out of the tent, and pack up my sleeping bag and pad along with my electronics and anything else I had in the tent that night. Then I make breakfast, which lately has been cold oatmeal and coffee. While the oats are cooking I put on sunscreen, bug spray, and body glide and throw my hair up in a pony tail. Then I eat, grab out my snacks for the day, and filter water (if needed). Michael’s routine is pretty similar. The last thing we do is fold up the tent, which goes into his pack.
This morning we got all packed up and hit the trail 8:30 am.
We only had about 5 miles to hike until we hit Sawbill Trail, the road to Tofte.
The terrain was pretty easy, so we were cruising.
It should come to no surprise that we walked by a beaver pond and through the trees.
I think I’m going to miss seeing so many cedars, birches, and maples after I leave the Superior Hiking Trail.
We reached the road around 10:00 am. Then it was a 2.4 mile road walk to the Coho Cafe where we had lunch. The sandwich, salad, chips, and soda were exactly what I needed.
It was another .6-mile walk to the hotel. On the way we stopped in the general store to see what type of groceries they had, then the liquor store for a 6-pack, and then the Holiday Station for some Powerade.
By this time it was 12:45 pm and check in wasn’t until 3:00 pm. We crossed our fingers and walked into the hotel. Our room was ready! Woohoo!
Then it was showers, laundry, and relaxation time followed by grocery shopping and campsite planning for our next stretch of trail.
We had dinner at Bluefin Grille then went back to the hotel to pack up and get ready for a few more days of hiking!
Superior Hiking Trail Campsites
The Superior Hiking Trail has great campsites!
Most campsites can hold 3-8 tents. Each site has a common food prep area with a fire ring and benches.
They all also have latrines, which are basically open air non-flushing toilets.
I didn’t expect either of these things, so it was such a pleasant surprise!
The downside to these designated campsites is that you must stay in them. There is no dispersed camping in this area. Typically this isn’t a bad thing, but if the campsites are 8 miles apart and you want to hike 3 more you can’t.
The other downside is that most of the tent pads aren’t even. They are typically at a weird slant or have large roots running through it. We’ve managed to make it work. It just isn’t always ideal.
There has only been one night night where there weren’t any other people camping at the site with us. It’s fun to connect with other people after a long day of hiking, but some people just hide by their tents and that’s ok too.
Superior Hiking Trail Mileage Totals
Part 2 miles: 45.1 Superior Hiking Trail miles + 4 additional miles = 49.1 total miles
Total miles: 98.8 Superior Hiking Trail miles + 6.8 additional miles = 105.6 total miles